Holoholo: Day Trips

Ka Lae and South Point

The drive from Volcano to South Point crosses dramatic terrain. Maunaloa rises gently from fields of rough aa lava. Young ohia seedlings and tree ferns have sprung up through the lichen-covered lava rock. Verdant pasturelands spread across Mauna Loa’s generous shoulders, and orchards of macadamia nut trees line the road. The sea stretches into eternity on the left. Turn off the air conditioning and breathe in the crisp, clean salt air, and stop for the black sand beach at Punaluu.

Courtesy Big Island Visitor Bureau.

Punaluu Black Sand Beach is the most popular black sand beach in Hawaii, and it’s easy to see why. There’s that great black volcanic sand, yes, but there are also Hawaiian green sea turtles, honu, often found basking on shore and cruising for limu (algae) snacks in the tidepools. Coconut palms fringe the upper edge of sand. An ancient heiau is within walking distance of the picnic tables and county campground. Walk along the blustery shoreline trail for dramatic solitude.

Small Town Buildings. Photo courtesy Big Island Visitor Bureau.

South of Punaluu is the pretty town of Naalehu (“the volcanic ashes”). For a hearty meal, try Shaka Restaurant, the southernmost restaurant and bar in the United States. Fresh catch from there on the coast is always on the menu.

Warrior Alert: The next town down is tiny Waiohinu, a peaceful Hawaiian village that author Mark Twain once visited. He planted a monkeypod tree in town that got blown over by wind in the 1950s, but it’s flourishing again—probably because of the wonderful climate!

South Point. Photo courtesy Big Island Visitor Bureau.

There are many reasons why the South Point-Ka Lae area is so special. Ka Lae (“The Point”) is believed to be the first place the seafaring Polynesians made landfall as early as 400 A.D. (some say 800 A.D., but who’s counting?) The entire southern tip of the Big Island is a national historical landmark, with the ruins of heiau (temples), fishing shrines and other cultural vestiges. To get there, turn onto South Point Road, a 12-mile narrow drive through open ranch land, and head towards the sea. You’ll pass by a field of giant white windmills generating electricity. Pull over and listen to the surreal whooshing sounds.

Courtesy Big Island Visitor Bureau.

Ka Lae is the southernmost spot in the United States, with nothing but deep blue ocean between it and Antarctica. Offshore, the strong currents and powerful winds are notorious, and mariners beginning with the first Polynesians to today’s residents, have devised clever ways of plying the rich fishing grounds without being swept away. Today, shoreline fishermen use toy boats or garbage bags to haul their lines into deep water. There are also large metal boat hoists and ladders, a quicker way for locals to launch small watercraft. The actual Ka Lae is a short walk away in front of the black-and-white light beacon, where there are no cliffs. There is also a small heiau.

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