The Hamakua Heritage Corridor to Waipio Lookout

A great day trip is driving along the scenic Hamakua Heritage Corridor from Hilo to Waipio Lookout, exploring the old plantation towns, parks and detours along the way. The road is smooth, and runs along the top of sea cliffs, through valleys, farmland and jungle. Waterfalls beckon.

Photo by Kirk Lee Aeder, Courtesy Big Island Visitor Bureau.

Chasin’ waterfalls. Outside of Hilo is the Big Island’s most famous waterfall, Akaka Falls, and its little brother, Kahuna Falls. A half-mile paved loop through Akaka Falls State Park offers eye candy every step of the way—colorful ginger blossoms, orchids, ti plants, vines, bamboo and more. Stunning in all weather!

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Another Warrior stands between Hilo and Akaka Falls, pointing towards the four-mile Onomea Scenic Drive. This lush detour is gorgeous from every angle, with moss-laden bridges, streams and staggering coastal views of Onomea Bay. Along the way is the Hawaii Tropical Botanical Garden.

Hawaii Tropical Botanical Garden at Onomea Bay. Photo courtesy Big Island Visitor Bureau.

Forty glorious acres serve as a rainforest preserve, and more than 2,000 species of tropical plants from around the world flourish here with such splendor that it’s hard to stop saying wow. Ferns, palms, heliconia and other beautiful and rare tropical species attract botanists, gardeners and scientists from around the world. Afterwards, stop at What’s Shakin’, an adorable little plantation-style lunch stop that serves up thick and creamy tropical fruit smoothies and excellent lunches that come with a side of exotic fruit like sour sop, dragonfruit or papaya, all grown on the owners’ surrounding acreage.

Waterfall in Hawaii Tropical Botanical Gardens. Photo courtesy Big Island Visitor Bureau.

If Akaka Falls and Rainbow Falls have merely wet your appetite for more, consider paying an admission fee and steer towards the privately owned Umauma Falls in Ninole, at the World Botanical Gardens. This glorious jungle playground offers invigorating walks, more than 5,000 species of Hawaiian and tropical flora, and a magnificent view of Mauna Kea, then culminates with lovely Umauma Falls. The overlook reveals a breathtaking triple-decker waterfall and emerald-edged pools that belong on the silver screen. Spend time hiking around and slipping into the ponds, if Mother Nature allows.

Lauphahoehoe Point. Courtesy Big Island Visitor Bureau.

On the road again, steer carefully through the hairpin turns. Pull over at the scenic point to view Laupahoehoe below. This peaceful area was devastated by the 1946 tsunami. Giant waves rolled into the islands right after dawn on April Fool’s Day. Sadly, 21 children and three adults lost their lives. There is a memorial dedicated to them. Nevertheless, Laupahoehoe Point is beautiful to behold with its rough, rocky shoreline, intriguing tidepools and dramatic sea cliffs.

Lauphahoehoe Train at the Train Museum. Courtesy Big Island Visitor Bureau.

Warrior alert: The Laupahoehoe Train Museum topside honors the old Hawaii Consolidated Railway that hauled goods and passengers up and down the Hamakua Coast. It’s an interesting peep into the past. Hungry? Locals love the crispy fried chicken at the Laupahoehoe Minit Stop. Grab a chicken breast and a potato wedge for a quick-nic at Kalopa Native Forest State Park. Great hiking through lush native forests, and camping (tents or cabins) is allowed.

Waipio Valley. Photo courtesy Big Island Visitor Bureau.

Pass through the quaint town of Honokaa, and proceed to Waipio Valley Lookout, an easy way to absorb the mysterious beauty of Waipio (“Curved Water”) Valley. It’s clear why this valley was so important to the ancient Hawaiians. Its stunning landscape of impossibly steep walls, numerous waterfalls, black sand beach, and mana (spiritual power) tell some of the story. Its fertile soil tells another: Waipio’s kalo (taro), bananas, coconuts and pigs used to sustain the island during periods of drought and famine. King Kamehameha the Great was hidden in this Garden of Eden during infancy to protect him from the Big Island chief who wanted to prevent his rule.

Adventurous hikers will appreciate wading into Waipio Valley, but an easier way is to hook up with one of the several reputable horseback tours that provide guided trail rides into the valley.

Small boutique store. Photo courtesy Big Island Visitor Bureau.

On the return trip to Hilo, the little town of Honokaa offers a Saturday morning farmers’ market and an assortment of small restaurants and cafés, plus the charming Honokaa Peoples Theater, which books an eclectic mix of local and internationally known musicians and performing artists.

For a sweet ending to your East Hawaii visit, make the mandatory stop at Tex’s Drive Inn for the malasadas. Tex’s is famous for being the Big Island’s top spot for the sugary Portuguese donuts, and they’re conveniently located off Hawaii Belt Road.