Out and About in the Kailua-Kona Vicinity

Travelers coming to West Hawaii fly into Kona International Airport. Whether you turn your rental car right or left out of the airport is entirely up to personal preference. Turn right, and you’ll head south towards the bustling seaside town of Kailua-Kona and the magnificent Keauhou Resort area, with its numerous historical sites and excellent snorkeling opportunities. Turn left and you come upon a string of luxurious seaside Kohala Coast resorts, manicured oases in a mysterious desert of hardened black lava. Farther on, there’s, historic Waimea if you go inland, or along the coast, the cozy, artsy villages of Hawi and Kapaau before the road ends at Pololu Valley, with its spellbinding black sand beach. In either direction, many of West Hawaii’s treasures are hidden along the way, and most travelers drive right on by.

Kaloko-Honokohau National Historic Park. Courtesy Big Island Visitor Bureau.

Kaloko-Honokohau National Historic Park is a 1,160-acre seaside park accessible via Honokohau Small Boat Harbor, or by pulling into park headquarters across from the Kaloko Industrial Park. The area used to be a Hawaiian settlement until the 19th century, and its hot and rugged lava landscape is contrasted by three gentle beaches with shallow water. Ancient Hawaiian fishponds attract a wealth of birds, including the Hawaiian stilt, or aeo, and the koloa maoli, or Hawaiian duck. Offshore, the waters are rich with sea turtles, reef fish and corals, and the occasional endangered Hawaiian monk seal is sighted here. The Hawaiians connected to the strong, underlying energy, or mana, here, and it’s a feeling that’s present today. Insider’s tip: Ask locals where to find the refreshing freshwater pool called “Queen’s Bath.”

Puuhonua o Honaunau, or the Place of Refuge. Courtesy Big Island Visitor Bureau.

Honokohau Harbor is home base for Kailua-Kona’s fleet of “fun in the sun” charter boats; everything from scuba diving charters and snorkel trips to sleek sport fishing yachts depart from Honokohau Harbor. While most of the sport fishing boats ply the waters year-round for marlin, ono, mahimahi and other feisty game fish, bottom-fishing charters, and fly fishing, are also available. Even just cruising around the harbor is a fun jaunt. There is a great little snorkeling beach hidden at the far end of the harbor, just south of where the road ends. Use caution crossing the large lava rock boulders to get there. Another welcome diversion is the Harbor Bar, a rollicking place that peaks around 3 p.m. when the fishing crews are pau hana (finished work) and ready for a frosty brew.

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Fauna. Hawaii Island doesn’t have an aquarium, but it doesn’t need one with all the action that happens offshore. Humpback whales are spied off West Hawaii during winter months, and a number of excellent whale-watching trips depart from most major coastal areas. There is also year-round whale watching with Captain Dan McSweeney, who offers humpback whale watches in addition to “off season” trips to observe pilot whales, sperm whales, dolphins and other marine mammals which prefer the West Hawaii marine environment. Visitors can also travel 100 feet beneath the surface without getting wet aboard the Atlantis, a wildly popular submarine voyage that plies the ocean’s depths in Kailua Bay.

A seaside massage at the Sheraton Keauhou Bay Resort & Spa. Courtesy of Sheraton Keauhou Bay Resort & Spa/Ho'ola Spa

Manta rays are creatures that also relish the West Hawaii marine scene. These graceful creatures are commonly seen at night, near shore in fairly shallow water, and a number of scuba diving and snorkeling charters offer special night diving trips so humans can interact with them. An easier option might be to watch them from shore. One tried-and-true manta ray hot spot includes the Sheraton Keauhou Bay Resort & Spa’s Crystal Blue lounge. Related to sharks, these gentle creatures feed on microscopic sea life attracted to the hotel lights. Insider’s tip: Manta ray sightings from shore seem to be more common during the summer months.

Driving into Kailua town along Alii Drive, it’s hard to imagine this place was once a sleepy fishing village. Nowadays, Kailua is a lively seaside playground, with the bustling Kailua Pier (a popular port of call for cruise ships), throngs of intent shoppers, and triathletes running, swimming or biking right on by. The world famous Ironman triathlon is a West Hawaii specialty, held every year in October and attracting thousands of triathletes from every corner of the world. Warrior Alert: the Hawai`i Visitors and Convention Bureau (HVCB) has placed Warrior Markers at points of interest for visitors and the community throughout the main Hawaiian Islands. The Warrior Marker is the registered trademark of HVCB. A warrior marks the base of the Kailua Pier, which is the start and finish of this exciting race. The town really comes alive as the athletes swim, bike and run their way to grueling glory.

Hulihee Palace. Photo courtesy Big Island Visitor's Bureau

To get a feel for what Kailua was like not that long ago, park it, and stroll the length of Alii Drive from the King Kamehameha Beach Hotel to Huggo’s Restaurant. Warrior Alerts: Stop at Hulihee Palace, an engaging museum with terrific coastal views that was once the summer home for Hawaiian royalty. Time your visit for the monthly concerts on the lawn. The Mokuaikaua Church is across the street from Hulihee Palace and is Hawaii’s earliest Christian church, built in 1820.

Hawaii’s most famous and revered ruler, King Kamehameha I was born up the coast in North Kohala, but he spent his final years in the sunny seaside climate and clear ocean waters of Kamakahonu, near where the King Kamehameha’s Kona Beach Hotel now stands. Walk through the hotel to check out Ahuena Heiau, a replica of King Kamehameha’s heiau (temple), which is off-limits but easily visible, marked by a warrior. Continue towards Kailua Pier, and check for triathletes preparing to make the plunge at the little beach near the pier’s base.

There are countless restaurants and shops lining Alii Drive. The Coconut Grove Market Place is an animated cluster of both, featuring sand volleyball outside the Hard Rock Café, and an awa bar, where patrons can sip the traditional—and mildly intoxicating—Polynesian beverage. For souvenirs, head up Palani Road to the large selection at Hilo Hattie.

A Kona beach on the Kona side. Photo courtesy Big Island Visitor Bureau.

Some of West Hawaii’s best beaches are hidden pleasures, and are only accessible by hiking in or by 4WD. Adored by locals, many of these beaches lie north of Kailua and south of the Kohala Coast, and include Kekaha Kai State Park and Kiholo Bay. Kua Bay with it’s lovely crescent of golden sand was once one of these gems, but now has a fully paved road, parking stalls, a restroom and shower area. It can get crowded, but early risers can appreciate the turquoise waters, good snorkeling and summer surf.