Kona’s Deep South: Puuhonua o Honaunau to Manuka

Driving through the South Kona district is an adventure, hugging the lush, steep slopes of Maunaloa on one side, and the impossibly massive Pacific Ocean on the other. Quaint roadside fruit and craft stands, coffee farms, art galleries, B&Bs and the occasional old-style Mom and Pop store are great excuses to stop and linger. Take turns driving, so everyone gets a chance to gawk.

Puuhonua o Honaunau, or the Place of Refuge. Courtesy Big Island Visitor Bureau.

Hawaii’s Big Island is famous for Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, but there’s another national park worth planning the better part of a day around: Puuhonua o Honaunau, or the Place of Refuge. In ancient times, this serene spot was a safe haven for Hawaiians who had broken one of the strict kapu (taboos) punishable by death. Today it’s a safe haven for anyone seeking peace, and a sense of place. There are heiau (temples), and the Hale o Keawe, where the bones of past chiefs imbue the area with their mana (power). You might get lucky and see a cultural demonstration, but if not, incredible snorkeling is available nearby at Two Step when conditions are favorable. Insider’s tip: Stick around for sunset. Some of the most vivid occur at Puuhonua o Honaunau, and the park’s seaside picnic tables offer the best seats.

St. Benedict's The Painted Church, Kona, Photo courtesy Big Island Visitor Bureau.

Another inspiring stop is a quick one at St. Benedict’s Painted Church, up Highway 160 towards Keokea. Its whimsical interiors are biblical scenes, painted by a Belgian-born priest. Bonus: There are a number of excellent coffee farms in the Honaunau area. If you’re really into coffee, time your trip for the annual Kona Coffee and Cultural Festival, held every fall.

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Want to hang with the locals? Stop by South Kona’s only white sand beach at Hookena Beach Park. The views from the steep and narrow road are superb, and you feel like you’re heading off the beaten path all the way down.

So you really want to act like a local? Go pig hunting. There is no sight quite so “Big Island local” as seeing a 4WD driving down the road with a large boar strapped over the hood, the truck bed full of panting dogs. The rural sections of Hawaii Island (and there’s a lot of rural here) are rife with wild pigs, and local men (and women) use dogs to track down the forest-destroying porkers for food and sport. Get your pig on at Kealia Ranch. Stop by their inviting little store off Highway 11 for more information on guided pig hunts, and check out the locally made crafts and “broke da mouth” shave ice.

Continue along Highway 11, and consider a detour down to the small fishing village of Milolii. The ancient ways of living off the sea are still practiced by locals who snare opelu fish with throw nets. Milolii’s most glorious treasure is Honomalino Beach, about a 1.5 mile round-trip hike south of the small church near the basketball court.

Back on the main road, the Manuka Natural Area Reserve starts a stone’s throw past Milolii, and ends in the Ka’u District. Turn into the Manuka State Wayside Park to stretch your legs and make a pit stop before heading back. This is a dry upland forest reserve with a two-mile round-trip hiking trail and public facilities. It’s cool and serene and another hidden treasure often overlooked by most visitors. It’s also a great place to stop on the long drive from West Hawaii to Hawaii Volcanoes National Park.