Holoholo: Day Trips

Cowboy Country to the End of the Road

The north portion of Hawaii Island is about as far from the postcard version of Hawaii as it gets. With Waimea’s sloping, emerald pastures and views of snow-capped Mauna Kea during winter months, coupled with North Kohala’s eclectic mix of bohemian art galleries and decidedly non-resort vibe, this is a day trip that is a vacation from the vacation.

An ideal day trip meanders along the slopes of Kohala Mountain, where the road allows. Get an early start in Waimea, perhaps with a local-style breakfast at Hawaiian Style Café. The house specialty is loco moco, a hamburger patty crowned with a fried egg and served on a pillow of white rice and brown gravy, a real local treat. Duly fortified, you’re now ready to explore Paniolo Country.

Waimea is famous for its cowboy, or paniolo, culture, introduced by Spanish and Mexican cowboys who were brought in during the 1800s to round up the multiplying heads of cattle introduced by Capt. George Vancouver. The cattle were Vancouver’s gift to King Kamehameha, but roamed wild, damaging large tracts of forest. Get completely educated at the Parker Ranch Museum and Visitor Center, located in the Parker Ranch Shopping Center. You’ll learn all about Parker Ranch, one of the largest ranches in the United States. Delve into the saga of the Parker family, and plan a visit to the private, historic homes and Puuopelu art gallery. The HVCB warrior marker leads the way.

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Thanks to the cowboy culture, Waimea abounds with beautiful horses. You will neigh in appreciation at the roadside paddocks where gorgeous thoroughbreds, Arabians, quarter horses and other fine steeds munch on the abundant grass. There are a number of excellent horseback riding opportunities in the Waimea/North Kohala area. Visitors can further immerse themselves into the Big Island ranch scene by visiting Kahua Ranch, a working sheep and cattle ranch that invites guests up for an evening barbecue and paniolo-style entertainment. Visitors can also explore the Waimea and North Kohala pastures on all-terrain vehicles (ATVs).

Hawaii Island is revered for its abundant and diverse agriculture, and Waimea’s fertile soil is a big part of the Big Island food scene. Many different crops grow here, including strawberries, exotic fruits, lettuces, leafy greens and juicy heirloom tomatoes. The ranches supply fresh lamb and beef, and there are several excellent Waimea restaurants that specialize in the bounty of the Big Island. Merriman’s Restaurant is the flagship restaurant of Chef Peter Merriman, one of the original Hawaii Regional Cuisine chefs. His culinary team parlays Hawaii’s abundance onto the menu nightly. Across the street, Chef Daniel Seafood Café (formerly Daniel Thiebaut’s Restaurant) enhances the Waimea bounty with a stunning selection of fresh seafood, and also features live music on some nights.

Want dinner and a night out? Be sure to check out what’s happening at Kahilu Theater, a terrific venue that seats 490 people and entertains the mostly local crowd with a steady stream of Hawaiian, national and international talent, concerts and films.

After Waimea, make sure to explore the road less traveled, the Kohala Mountain Road (Highway 250). Most visitors miss this beautiful drive, but it’s a scenic way to get from Waimea to Hawi and Pololu Valley. The lookout shows off breathtaking views of the Kohala coastline and the mountains of Mauna Loa, Mauna Kea and Hualalai, best viewed from a convertible, with Hawaiian music playing.

The Kohala Mountain Road ends in Hawi, where a string of art galleries and restaurants try to outdo each other in funky cuteness. Stop for a spell, then continue along a string of warrior markers, starting with the King Kamehameha statue in Kapaau.

North Kohala is the birthplace of King Kamehameha, Hawaii’s most admired ruler, famous for unifying all the Hawaiian Islands under his rule. To feel the mana, and delve a little deeper into the mysterious Hawaiian culture that shaped these islands, stop by Mookini Heiau (where hundreds of human sacrifices were performed) and the Kamehameha Birthplace. Proceed with respect and contemplation. Note: the October 15, 2006 earthquake caused some damage to the Mookini Heiau and Kamehameha Birthplace. At the heiau, a giant boulder now blocks the entrance to the interior, but the heiau can still be appreciated from the outside. At Kamehameha’s Birthplace, some rocks broke loose from the lava rock walls, but otherwise both historic structures are intact.

Insider’s Tip: The Kohala Book Shop in Kapaau is Hawaii’s largest used book store, and its shelves are lined with unexpected treasures, including rare and out-of-print books, maps and prints.

Warrior Alert: The road ends at Pololu Valley, where a steep roadside trail takes strong-kneed explorers to one of the most stunning black sand beaches in the world, framed by a lush valley and stream, and steep, verdant cliffs. Hikers will want to spend time exploring this area, but ocean enthusiasts beware. Pololu’s black sand glory is not a swimming beach, and strong currents and powerful waves make it downright dangerous.

On the drive back, opt for the coastal route via Akoni Pule Highway (Highway 270). Make time to explore Lapakahi State Historical Park, a formerly prosperous Hawaiian fishing village. A self-guided, one-mile walking tour reveals fishing shrines, Hawaiian fishing techniques, games, shelters and much more. The snorkeling here can be excellent in calm conditions.

Haven’t seen enough of this wonderful coastline? Follow the warrior marker and head inland at Kohala Estates to Pua Mau Place Botanical Gardens. Less than a mile uphill, Pua Mau has incredible views of the ocean and the island of Maui across the Alenuihaha Channel. Whale watching is superb from the lanai during winter months. Keiki (children) will love the large animal and insect sculptures, plus the numerous friendly peacocks and other birds. The gardens include many species of palms, and an intriguing hibiscus maze is in the works.

Soon after, you’ll approach the intersection of Kawaihae Harbor. Before you get there, stop for the ono (delicious) shave ice at Anuenue Ice Cream. Shave ice, or ice shave, is the local version of a snow cone, but much better. If you’re feeling nutty, stop at the new Hamakua Macadamia Nut Factory. This sparkling new facility is the only macadamia nut company to use only 100 percent Hawaiian macadamia nuts from Big Island growers. Free tours, a small café, and some extremely delicious nuts await you.

No trip to the North Kohala area would be complete without paying homage to Hawaii’s largest heiau, Puukohola Heiau, a National Historic Site located on a bluff in Kawaihae. Many people drive right by, not realizing that the huge structure was built from lava rocks passed hand-by-hand in a human chain all the way from Pololu Valley, some 25 miles away. It’s an astonishing site and feat to comprehend. But why all the toil? In 1790, a prophet told King Kamehameha to build the massive heiau in order to appease the war god, Ku. Not only that, but Kamehameha had to sacrifice his cousin and chief rival there. After this gruesome task, Kamehameha set sail and united the Hawaiian Islands under his rule by 1810. The heiau, although damaged during the October 15, 2006 earthquake, remains intact and a good walking trail leads from the heiau to the shoreline. Another navigational heiau along the trail is Mailekini Heiau, built in the 1500s. In addition, an older temple lies submerged just offshore, in reverence to the shark gods. Insiders tip: For a hair-raising thrill, observe the murky near-shore waters. Keep your eyes peeled for the school of small black tip reef sharks often seen near the heiau just after sunrise and just before sunset.